The Different Types Of Silk

Wednesday, October 13th, 2010


How well do you know your silks? At Patra, we’re often asked by many of you about the qualities of the different silks we use and why some are more suitable for certain activities than others.

We’ve therefore provided a mini guide to help you with your shopping. We hope you find it useful – please tell us if there is anything else you would like to know!



Photography: Kevin Connors


Charmeuse
  • The silk we have in mind when we think of ‘traditional’ silk.
  • The front of the fabric is in a shimmery satin weave.
  • The back of the fabric is a flattened crêpe.
BENEFITS

  • Charmeuse has more drape than crêpe de chine and works well for scarves, blouses and lingerie.
Chiffon
  • A light, matt fabric made from fine twisted yarns, spaced out to make the fabric transparent.
  • Dimension is added to garments by the creation of billows of fabric.
  • Unless it is used for scarves, garments with chiffon normally require lining or backing.
Crêpe de Chine
  • A lightweight fabric made by fibres, where part of them are twisted clockwise and others in a counter-clockwise direction. These fibres are then woven in a plain-weave fabric.
  • The twisted fibres give crêpe its distinctive ‘pebbly’ look and feel.
  • Comes in many different varieties – crêpe de Chine, Moroccan crêpe and crêpe georgette…
Dupion Silk
  • Produced from two silkworms that spin a cocoon together. This makes a strong double-thread silk, usually resulting in a rough yarn and irregularity in sheerness or weight.
  • Feels coarse.
  • Black specks which occasionally appear in the fabric are part of the original cocoon of the silk worm. Removing them would both weaken the fabric and destroy part of its beauty and character. They are inherent to dupion silk fabric and should not be considered as defects in weaving.
BENEFITS

  • Strong and lustrous.

 

TIPS

  • Shot colours, the use of two different coloured threads in weaving, go well with Dupion silk. This gives a different shade to the fabric in light.
Fuji Silk
  • Medium-weight fabric, woven from spun silk fibres.
  • Has a soft lustre and a lavish feel, reminiscent of high quality suede.
  • Has a fluid drape.
BENEFITS

  • Durable.
  • Resists wrinkles.
Habotai Silk
  • Also known as China silk, Habutai, Pongee.
  • The “classic” silk fabric.
  • Was first used to line kimonos.
  • Plain-weave fabric.
  • Its weight can range from 5 mm to the more heavy 12 mm. Most scarves are made of 8mm Habotai.
BENEFITS

  • Soft and lightweight. Habotai silk is a sheer fabric and has a graceful drape and smooth surface.
  • Great for scarves.
Noil Silk
  • Known as ‘raw silk’.
  • Made from the short fibres left after combing and carding, so it doesn’t shine like many other silk fabrics.
  • Very versatile fabric.
  • Has a matte surface and rough finish – has a ‘nubby’ feel.
  • Doesn’t show pin holes.
  • Off-white in colour. It is easily distinguished from other types of silk for the subtle flecks on it, which are natural particles of the cocoon.

 

BENEFITS

  • Looks similar to cotton, but still feels soft against the skin.
  • Drapes better than cotton and resists wrinkling.
  • Durable.
  • Easy to care for.
  • Great for travelling.

 

TIPS

  • Should be handwashed. Will look better after every wash than with dry-cleaning.
Tussah Silk
  • Also known as ‘shantung’.
  • A type of wild silk, that is produced by silkworms that feed on oak and juniper leaves.
  • As the worm is not grown in a controlled environment, the moth hatches from the cocoon and interrupts the filament length, resulting in short and coarse fibres, instead of long and lustrous ones.
  • Usually comes from India or China. The India silk generally has more lustre to it.
  • Feels coarse and is delicate and stiff.
  • Difficult to dye and most often available in its natural colour, a creamy tan.

 

BENEFITS

  • Both lightweight and airy, as well as dressy, giving cool comfort to the wearer.
  • Does not wrinkle easily.
  • Good for travelling.

Silk Mixes

Silk Cashmere
  • A blend of the two luxury fabrics – pure silk and the fine wool that comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goat.
  • The natural crimp it contains aids the fibre to interlock during processing. This enables it to be spun into a very fine and lightweight fabric.
  • The number of crimp correlates with the fineness of the spun yarn and the softness of the finished product.
  • The fabric retains the small air spaces trapped between fibres which makes it warm without being heavy.
BENEFITS

  • Luxuriously soft and lightweight with good insulation quality.
  • Extremely warm.
  • Does not scratch like other wool.
Silk Cotton
  • Difficult to weave together in order to keep the separate fibres from unraveling.
  • As warm as silk, but of a heavier weight.
  • Thicker than silk on its own.
BENEFITS

  • Durable.
  • Has a superior substance and body to plain cotton.
  • Less slippery than silk due to its heavier weight.
Silk Linen
  • Used to create finer fashions and premium apparel.
BENEFITS

  • Much like our other silk mixes, the feel and drape of pure cotton linen is improved when blended with pure silk.
Silk Wool
  • Pure wool on its own does not necessarily feel wonderful against your skin, but blending it with silk will create such a fabric.
  • Patra uses Merino wool in its garments, the finest sheep wool fabric in the world, famed for its superior shine and softness.
  • Merino wool has natural elasticity.

BENEFITS

  • The addition of Merino wool means that this mix has the maximum absorbent quality and has great breathability. It absorbs moisture and transfers it to the air, creating a dry layer next to the skin, as well as absorbing odours from the body.
  • Resistant to dirt and wrinkling.
  • Has the ability to hold dye.
  • Provides warmth without adding weight.
  • Non-scratchy wool.
  • Has a higher level of UV light protection.

6 Responses to “The Different Types Of Silk”

  1. Tim Thompson says on :

    Hi, not sure if this is the correct place to ask?
    Normally I boycott China and only buy Fairtrade.

    So, men’s shirts?

    India and Fairtrade? China and Fairtrade? Or, where does the silk come from? Many thanks for an early reply as a silk shirt seems to be on the cards for Christmas!!

    Regards,
    Tim

  2. Patra says on :

    Dear Tim,

    Thank you for your comment. We will be replying to your comment by email. You should receive it shortly.

    Kind regards,

    Customer Services
    Patra Selections

  3. Mrs. I. Crisp says on :

    What is the difference between the silk you use and Mulberry silk. I understand a thread count of 400 or more is more suitable for bed linen. Thank you.

  4. Patra says on :

    Dear Mrs Crisp,

    Many thanks for your comment. You will receive a reply by email shortly.

    Kind regards,

    Customer Services
    Patra Selections

  5. rosie says on :

    Great post, my mother in law is making me a slim silk wedding dress with pleated tulle over the top. We are looking for a fluid, shiny silk that is not too see through. Would I need to double up on the layers, and what would people recommend?
    Thank you so much,
    Rosie

  6. Patra says on :

    Hi Rosie,
    Thanks for your comments – glad you liked the blog. You might want to take a look at Pure Silk Satin. It has a crepe-de-Chine finish on the back but is fluid and shiny on the front. To stop the white fabric being see-through it would probably be best to double up on the layers as the usual weight is 19mm-24mm. Working with pure silk is difficult as it slips and is a delicate fabric, but if you get it right it can look absolutely stunning.

    Congratulations and good luck for your big day. We are sure it will turn out beautifully.

    The Team at Patra

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